Aquarium Wet

By admin

Sep

23

Aquarium Wet

Basic Freshwater Aquarium Principles; Filters, Heaters, Bio-cycling, Live Plants, Feeding, Cleaning and Chemistry

AQUARIUM:

Start with as large an aquarium as you can afford. There is a very BASIC priciple (this only applies to beginners), that is to have 1-2 inches of NARROW bodied fish per FILTERED aquarium gallon. Goldfish are dirty and fatter, so I would triple this with them (3″). This also only applies to a standard rectangular aquarium.

Obviously longer fish need more tank width and length. I would decrease the amount of fish proportional to the gallons in a tall aquarium or hexagon aquarium.

Remember, many fish purchased can grow much larger than your original purchase size (ex: goldfish), so keep this in mind too.

FILTERS:

I always recommend two filters minimum per aquarium for redundancy and for improved biological (denitrifying) filtration. For a small aquarium, a combination of a hang on the back and a sponge filter. Or a sponge filter and an internal power filter. You want to make sure and rinse your sponge or cartridge out in used aquarium water to maintain your beneficial bacteria for bio filtration.

Other filters of note include canister, wet/dry, under gravel, and fluidized bed.

There are four types of filtration:

Biological; the removal of nitrogenous waste (ammonia, ECT), which is the most important type.

Mechanical; the removal of larger debris (organic and inorganic) before it can go through the nitrogen cycle (organic)

Chemical; The removal of chemical contamination via carbon, zeolite or many other products. This becomes less important in a healthy, established aquarium.

Germacidal; The use of UVC or ozone to kill disease pathogens and control the Redox potential.

HEATER:

Most tropical fish do well at a temperature between 76 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. (Discus prefer warmer).

Goldfish do not need a heater.

I recommend 25 watts for every 10 degrees of ambient temperature you need to raise your aquarium temperature. EX: If your home is 68 degrees and you have a 40 gallon aquarium, to reach a temperature of 78 degrees you would need a 100 watt heater.

BIO-CYCLING:

Your aquarium will not be at peak biological filtration for 6 weeks (or more). To start your biological filtration, there are many cycling products available, such “Cycle” by Hagen. My success with these products is mixed at best, it is very difficult for the aerobic bacteria that are needed for cycling your aquarium to live in a sealed container kept at room temperature, as they die very quickly without oxygen.

I prefer to add gravel and/or used filter sponge or cartridge from another aquarium.

This method of adding media is much faster (you still have to take it slow), and provides all the necessary bacteria, the only negative is adding disease pathogens to your aquarium, but I have rarely encountered this problem.

We used this method for our Aquarium Maintenance route for years and never lost a fish to Ammonia or nitrite poisoning.

Another method is fishless cycling where un-scented ammonia is poured into the aquarium (3-5 drops per gallon pure ammonia) so as to bring your ammonia level to 4-5 ppm. Then it takes about 3-8 weeks for the aquarium to cycle. Although this method is growing in popularity, I do not recommend it, not because it does not work (it does), but because human nature is to want to add fish sooner than the 3-8 weeks it takes for this method.

The method of adding media is much faster (you still have to take it slow), and provides all the necessary bacteria, the only negative is adding disease pathogens to your aquarium, but I have rarely encountered this problem.

Cycling is what is referred to as the Nitrogen cycle. Waste (nitrogenous) from the fish is broken down first from ammonia (NH3, the most toxic) to nitrites (NO2, less toxic) to nitrates (NO3, least toxic- but high amounts can stunt fish growth and lower disease resistance).

At a pH of 6.5, NH3 (ammonia) converts to NH4 (ammonia) which is basically non-toxic to most fish (many ammonia removing chemicals to a similar ion change, as they do NOT actually remove ammonia). If you have plants in your aquarium they will directly consume the ammonia (especially hornwort), thus rendering the NO2 (nitrite) part of the nitrogen cycle null. The danger here is if your pH climbs above 6.5 the ammonia can change to much more toxic NH3 and the aerobic bacteria needed for nitrite consumption will be sparse.

For more about th nitrogen cycling, see this article: AQUARIUM NITROGEN CYCLE

LIVE PLANTS:

Live plants are desirable in my opinion, but many artificial plants can look quite realistic when properly arranged or used in conjunction with live plants. For a beginner live plants are more difficult, but not a lot.

The benefits of live plants are they are great at nitrate removal and keep a natural balance to the aquarium, removing CO2 and adding oxygen (only during daylight). Hornwort is an excellent plant for nitrate removal (even ammonia removal), and is relatively easy to grow. Banana plants (when available) are also a very easy plant.

Here is a list of “easy” beginner plants:

Compacta swords, hornwort, Red wendtii, spiral valis, dwarf subulata, Hygro, Java fern regular or lace.

Be careful with many fish that will “mow down” your plants such as: Silver Dollars, most African cichlids, and even goldfish.

For healthy plants I suggest a substrate of #00 sand mixed with laterite about 3-5 cm deep with a layer of #3 gravel on top about 2 cm deep. This combination works well for plant roots, ease of vacuuming the top layer ONLY (where plant roots are), and for better bio filtration. You can substitute laterite with a sandy top soil (although usually not as good a source of iron), by preparing the soil thus; Gather sandy top soil, add water with a 10/1 bleach solution, mix for a couple of minutes, then rinse (with a de-chlorinator for first rinse) until the water runs relatively clear. The sand that is left is what you mix with your plant roots.

FEEDING:

I recommend feeding high quality fish and plant based foods. Quality ingredients include: spirulina, fish meal, FD Brine Shrimp, shrimp meal, Vitamin C & E, lobster shell.

Fish cannot digest proteins from beef well, and fish get most their energy requirements from fats. Some quality foods include: Omega, Spirulina 20, Ocean Nutrition, Hikari, Sanyu.

Feed you fish two to three times per day what they will consume in three minutes.

Feeding foods high in poor quality proteins can increase your nitrate levels, as an essential ingredient in protein is nitrogen, and if unusable by the fish, it is excreted, entering into the nitrogen cycle.

CLEANING:

You should try and have a schedule of changing 20% (or more) of your water every week. I recommend using a gravel vacuum, you need not remove the fish while using a gravel vacuum. Make sure the water you add back in is the same temperature and ph, and has no chlorine or chloramines.

CHEMISTRY:

Keep your ammonia level at 0, your nitrite at 0, your nitrates below 20-30, and your KH above 80 ppm. Ph depends very much on the fish you are keeping. Discus prefer under a ph below 7.0, while Mbuna African cichlids prefer above 8.0

A very general ph of 7.2 -7.5 works for many community fish. Crushed Coral and/or Wonder Shells can help maintain a high pH when you desire an aquarium with a higher pH, KH, & GH, especially where tap or well water is very acidic (Wonder Shells are much faster at dissolving to the desired KH and add electrolytes crushed coral does not!).

For a lower pH in aquariums where the tap water used is very high (usually 7.8 or above), I have used blends of RO (Reverse Osmosis) water and tap water. The ratio varies with the tap water pH, KH, & GH and the water conditions I want to achieve. With Discus it can be as high as 75% RO. Then to maintain these conditions I use peat in my filters. Note that GH does not affect pH, and magnesium (a major ingredient of GH) is important to fish metabolism. Also note that calcium which is the main factor in KH (which does affect pH!) is also important for fish metabolism and fish health and healing. With the above method of using RO (or DI) water in a blend with tap water and peat, I have still been able to maintain a KH above 80 ppm (for proper calcium absorption), sometimes with additives such Wonder Shells or Calcium Polygluconate.

CONCLUSION:

This is only very general information, there is much more in depth articles about each of these subjects and more available. But these are sound principles to follow, based on 27+ years of aquarium maintenance experience. As new and better methods become available, I regularly update my information to reflect this.

For my more in depth full article:
Aquarium Information

About the Author

By Carl Strohmeyer

http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/

DIY Wet Dry Sump Filter for Aquarium.


Drive Aquarium

By admin

Sep

22

Drive Aquarium

Why Set Up An Aquarium?

You’ve been to the pet store and noticed the fish tanks and thought “maybe I could do that”. Guess what, you can “do that” and it’s not nearly as difficult as you may think.

The tropical fish keeping hobby has come a long way over the past decade thanks in part to advances in aquarium equipment and the plethora of readily available information. There are many outstanding fish and aquarium books available as well as an abundant amount of information on the internet, forums and discussion groups. Running your own tank is way easier than it was just 10 years ago.

In the past, folks would go to the pet store and buy the tank, equipment and fish all at once not knowing they were setting themselves up for failure. They would get the aquarium set up and running, put some fish in and everything would be fine for a couple of days but then the fish would start to die. Now we know better. We know about the crucial aquarium nitrogen cycle that must take place in all new tanks. We know how to properly acclimate tropical fish to our tank water and how to periodically use our aquarium test kits to test the tank water to make sure nothing is out of whack. We have better access to fish behavior and can determine which fishes shouldn’t be kept together in the same tank. The information is out there, at our fingertips, at libraries, book stores and the search engines.

So, with all this available information we can quickly come up to speed with running a tank in our home. There are many different types of aquarium setups but the most common types are freshwater, saltwater fish only and saltwater reef tanks. Here is a very brief intro:

Freshwater Aquarium
The mainstay of the hobby and the most popular setup, a freshwater tank setup can be a great first tank and it will give you the necessary experience needed for branching out into other types of tanks. This setup is the least expensive in terms of equipment and livestock and is not usually as demanding as the other types. There are literally hundreds of different types of fish available so finding a species you’ll like shouldn’t pose a problem. You can keep live aquarium plants in your tank as well. Keeping plants may require an upgrade to your lighting system and you may have to add supplements to your tank water. Freshwater aquarium plants add another dimension of beauty to a freshwater tank.

Saltwater Aquarium
Saltwater tanks are perceived to be more difficult than freshwater tanks. In times past, that statement may have been true but I don’t think that is necessarily the case today. With the increasing use of live rock as the primary biological filter in a saltwater tank setup, the chances of successfully running this type of aquarium have dramatically improved. A fish only saltwater tank equipped with live rock will be more expensive than a freshwater tank because you’ll need to purchase live rock and a protein skimmer. Marine fish are also more expensive than their freshwater counterparts.

Saltwater Reef Tank
The ultimate tank setup in this hobby has to be the reef tank. It’s like having a small piece of the coral reef in your living room. The emphasis is on the corals and invertebrates with a limited amount of fish. These tanks are however, more expensive to setup and maintain. Equipment such as metal halide lighting, protein skimmers, live rock, testing equipment, supplements, water purification units (reverse osmosis and deionization) and sumps drive the cost of this setup. Don’t forget about the ongoing maintenance costs (electricity) as well. The livestock costs for live corals, fish and invertebrates are also very expensive. This type of tank can be very demanding when first set up because you’ll need to monitor the water parameters periodically and take corrective action when necessary. Even though this is the most expensive type of setup, it can also be the most breathtaking. You should to do your homework (research) and figure out exactly what you want to accomplish before buying your first piece of reef equipment.

No matter what type of tank setup you choose, as long as you do your homework beforehand you’ll enjoy this hobby. Research the equipment and livestock before purchasing them and you will prevent many headaches and keep some of that hard earned money in your wallet!

Please visit http://www.FishLore.com for more information on tropical fish.

About the Author

Mike is an editor at FishLore.com. Designed for beginners, http://www.FishLore.com provides tropical fish information, how-to guides, articles, fish profiles, FAQs, forums and more! FishLore.com – Tropical Fish & Aquarium Information.

Trip to New Orleans Aquarium


Bulb Coralife

By admin

Sep

22

New Light Fixture- Coralife Aqualight T5


Pond Aquarium

By admin

Sep

17

Pond Aquarium

Choosing the Right Aquarium – a Fresh Water or a Saltwater

An aquarium can be a great addition to your interior decorations. If you are looking to add a certain level of style and beauty to your home or office, having an aquarium can do just that. While deciding to choose an aquarium for your house you may have wondered which one to choose from. There are endless possibilities when setting up an aquarium in your own home. If you are installing aquarium for the first time, you need to know many tit bits of keeping fish healthy and in a comfortable environment.

For people who are new to domesticating fish, starting with a small tank with less number of fishes is a good idea. This will give them time to understand the needs and will train them in many aspects that need to be taken care of before installing a fish aquarium or constructing a fish pond. For starters, the tank will need a pond pump, lighting, hood to prevent the fish from jumping out, a filter to keep the water clean, water testing kit for PH water levels etc. And when switching to a larger aquarium or a fish pond you will require many aquarium accessories like aquarium pumps, pond filters and pump, pond liners, water fountains, garden fountains and many other pond and aquarium supplies.

Know lets talk about which one to choose-a freshwater aquarium or a saltwater one. Many people choose a freshwater aquarium over a saltwater aquarium without really looking into the benefits and drawbacks of both. In my opinion if you have a good budget to invest on your aquarium needs, then you should definitely look into a saltwater aquarium. While people tend to go the freshwater direction due to the fact that it is a much cheaper alternative, the beauty and variety that having a saltwater aquarium affords you is not easily surpassed.

Moreover in a saltwater aquarium, you have much more variety of tropical fish to choose from. Clownfish, Hawk Fish, Blue Tang and many more varieties can be bred in a saltwater aquarium. The tropical fish are bright, colorful and lively —all of the things that you need in an aquarium to help you feel better about your space and more alive. The fish that you can have in a saltwater aquarium are a great deal more exotic and beautiful than anything a freshwater aquarium could house.

Maintenance is yet another factor that should be considered while choosing a tropical aquarium for your house. If you don’t’ have time to indulge in aquarium maintenance, having a saltwater aquarium is a bad idea. There are people who tend to go the freshwater direction due to the fact that it is a much cheaper alternative and need less maintenance and cleaning. Whatever type you choose an aquarium definitely adds a touch of your personal character to a home or office environment.

About the Author

Aquatics-Online is a leading online supplier of tropical aquariums and aquarium accessories providing best of aquarium lighting and heaters throughout UK.

DIY Pond Filter


Aquatic Plants

By admin

Sep

16

Aquatic Plants

What Goes Into A Freshwater Planted Aquarium?

In a freshwater planted aquarium a range of plant types are used and they come in a variety of forms. And in the same way fishes do, they also have requirements for specific water temperatures and lighting so you must find this out before you start planting them in your aquarium.

Marginal Plants – The majority of aquarium plants come within this category. In nature they are submerged for just a section of the year. Throughout the dry season they will grow out from the water and the majority flower and seed at that time.

Cryptocoryne genus and Echinodorus genus are good examples. There are more than 50 species under the genus Cryptocorynes and the Amazon Sword species (Echinodorus amazonicus), is very popular amongst the genus Echinodorus.

Real Aquatic Plants – Often sold as cuttings these aquatic plants are proper aquatic plants because they are submerged in the water and must stay that way. A good example is Cabomba caroliniana, which is from the genus Cabomba iand usually called the Green Cabomba .

Terrestrial Plants Are A No No – You can not leave these plants submerged for a long time in your freshwater aquarium because bad water quality will happen due to them rotting. Sometimes these are sold as aquatic plants so look out for them.

Cuttings – Cabomba is a very popular choice for the aquarium but is also one of the more difficult to succeed with. It is good for hiding heaters and pipes but it also means that its delicate fronds can be easily damaged in an area with fast moving water. A more hardy species can be used for this situation; the Hygrophilia.

Rooted Plants – As some of these can grow to a large size (for example the Amazon Sword plants) choose carefully so they fit in with the size of your aquarium. Plants that are easier to manage are the E. paniculatus and the E. tenellus which is ideal for the front of your tank as it quickly covers the substrate. Others such as the slow growing Cryptocoryne species will need to be thinned out after they establish themselves and grow in bunches.

Basket Grown Plants – These can be either planted as they are, in the basket, or preferably out of the basket. And check to see how many plants are actually in the basket. Quite often there may be four or five plants potted as one. These need to be separated and planted individually.

Bulbs and Corms – The most well known species are the Aponogeton and Nymphaea. The Aponogeton have long pretty leaves and you can get flowers and if you are lucky they will seed giving you new plants.

The Nymphaea produce attractive leaves, varying from pink to red, under the water but you must make sure that lily pads are not formed on the surface. If you do not then the surface will get covered by them and no light will get to your plants.

Floating Plants – Not often used in community tanks as again they will cut out light to your other plants. But they are useful in breeding tanks for hiding places and spawning locations. Often used are Riccia, Ceratopteris thalictroides (Indian Fern) and Pistia stratiotes (Water lettuce). But avoid Lemna (Duckweed) like the plague as it will multiply very quickly and cover the surface completely.

Feeding – Rooted plants can be fed with fertilizer pellets so they can grow healthily but be careful not to use too much.

Lighting and Water Temperatures – Cabomba plants for the aquarium need warm water temperatures (from 18º to 32ºC) and good light levels (up to 3 watts per gallon). Cryptocorynes don’t need bright lighting and in fact are good with low to moderate lighting conditions and a temperature range of around 20º to 33ºC.

Propagation – Cabomba can be propagated by cuttings with good light conditions to facilitate rooting. Cabomba is a plant that is very easily cloned. Cut them in half after they reach 15-20 cm at the node or branch. Just stick it in the gravel and the plant does the rest.

Other plants, such as the Cryptocoryne species, give out runners that go into the substrate and form more plants. And others, such as Microsorium pteropus (Java Fern) and Ceratopteris thalictroides (Indian Fern), grow small plantlets from their leaves which drop off or can be taken off to form new plants.

About the Author

Paul Curran offers a FREE E-Course on fresh water aquariums and a Freshwater Aquariums Care Information System to help you set up a beautiful aquarium with happy and healthy fish. And from the articles resource you will learn more about what goes into a freshwater planted aquarium

Water Plants


Bulbs Coralife

By admin

Sep

15

Uv Sterilization in Aquariums; Misinformation

I continue to follow the threads on forums, aquarium articles, and blogs about UV Sterilization. It still amazes me much misinformation spread about this, some masked in science. As I have stated many times before, a UV Sterilizer is not essential for any aquarium, however even for goldfish I have had maintained tanks with as many variables (similarities) in place as possible and noted the differences and this includes thriving reef tanks.

What I also find interesting is that many of these same persons who trash them will then state a protein skimmer as essential. I have maintained tanks with and without Skimmers (again every other possible variable the same or as close as possible), and noted the changes in measurable parameters and found that yes they are useful, however often not by much and that Mud Filters, DIY DSB filters or similar can often replace them (as well as UV Sterilizers and good over head lighting such as MH).

Back to the subject at hand, here is a thread I will comment on. In this thread one person who offered proof (albeit not of the perfect scientific nature, but as good as it can often be within this hobby) was attacked dog pile style without other backing up their statements other than criticizing his methods:

Arthur #1 (Edited):

“If you read some scientific documents about UV sterilization of water you will know they talk usually about a standard long, 40W mercury UV tube in a 3″ diameter lamp and water passing at the speed about 500 gph or less. This kind of setup delivers dosage of about 18,000 mW-sec/cm2. In order to increase this dosage you need to lower the water flow. For example, 250 gph

flow will in above mentioned lamp would be exposed to the almost double dosage of 34,000 mW-sec/cm2. This dosage is enough to kill bacteria, yeast, some mold spores, viruses and microalgae. And some aquarium grade lamps achive this effect with unicellular algea. To kill protozoa (like a well known from school “Paramecium” or our ich-causing “Cryptocaryon irritans”)

you would have to increase the dosage.

MY COMMENT:

First, most studies I have read show under 10,000 mW per se/cm2 for bacteria. Second, I have read articles that have shown 30,000 + mW-sec/cm2 with 90 watt bulbs at a rate of 200 + gallons per MINUTE (which even I find hard to believe, my point often it depends on whose data you look at. Third, there is more to treatment of Cryptocaryon than just out right sterilization (I would not want it that high in my reef tanks!!!), there is also the Redox potential which Sterilizers improve and also general water quality.

Finally each unit is different and there are many variables from age of the bulb (even a 3 month old bulb has lost 25%), to temperature, design of the unit, pre filtration (a micron pre filter vastly improves sterilization), and to flow rate which I have found to be best at 20 gph (or less for most good units in aquarium applications).

Arthur #2 (edited):

Without a hospital tank, adding a new fish was always hazardous. Back when I had

no UV on the tank, once one of the fish started showing signs, the life

expectancy of that fish was usually less than 3 days; they could not take the

combined stress of the parasites and the copper treatment. Other fish in the

tank would invariably show signs of infestation later, but would usually make it

through. Once the first sterilizer was added, the rate at which the disease

spread decreased; my theory is that some of the parasites were being killed in

their free-swimming stage. After that, the first fish to show signs usually

survived, and some of the other fish would never show any signs at all.

Once I added the second sterilizer, I never lost a fish to ich, though I did get

the occasional infestation. In short, there was a direct relationship to the

number of watts of UV and the intensity and rate of spread of the disease.

Since I was not religious in changing the bulbs (and the bulbs get less

effective with time), I was also in a position to notice that an outbreak was

worse when the sterilizer bulb was pretty old. Again, this didn’t happen once I

had two units running.

MY COMMENT:

This person most likely had decent units with low flow rates, pre filtration, and useful discernment.

Without elaborating too much (my expanded articles have much about this), as stated earlier there are other aspects of UV Sterilizers such Redox Potential, this is not a hard test to perform; simply test the Redox without a UV and then run one for a week and test again, easy! So many person who trash persons like this have not considered all the variables if they have failed, myself I have seen UV Sterilizers not do a damn thing. These were often 8 watt Units running off a sump with a flow rate of 800 gph, a calcified quartz sleeve and poor pre filtration. This is not to say a 8 watt unit (or less) cannot work, just not under those conditions (and in the case a brand I will not mention, a poor mixing chamber design as well). The 15 Watt Custom UV Sterilizer I made has performed well in most every application I have placed it in (The Terminator Compact UV Sterilizers do well too, one of the best compact UVs I have used along with the ReSun and Coralife).

What a UV Sterilizer is, is a tool for good aquarium husbandry along with water changes, filtration, Protein Skimmers and more. In many of my side by side applications with and without, the UV was just one more piece of the puzzle to improved water quality in let’s face it, an artificial environment (unless we want to kid ourselves). I can think of one experiment in particular with several goldfish tanks at a large service customer of mine. All these tanks in particular had canister filters, cleaning and the same feeding schedule and bio load; the only difference was UV Sterilizers. The difference in amount of diseased goldfish, growth and color was very noticeable (the vice president did not no we were performing this experiment and even commented about why some tanks did better than others, after which she had us install UV Sterilizers on all).

For my FULL aricle (including references and more links), please visit this site:

Aquarium and Pond UV Sterilizer

About the Author

By Carl Strohmeyer

Fluval Edge Marine setup coralife bulb LEDs coming


Little Fishies

By admin

Sep

15

Little Fishies
How come I feel like my fish is full of little fishies?

Dood, i swear to god there is a school of fish swimming in my stomach man. So wierd. What kind of problems usually have these side effects?

Drug addiction, go see a doctor friend, these sorts of things arent really answerable here o.o

The Muppet Show – Three Little Fishies


Marine Reef

By admin

Sep

12

Marine Reef

Starting a Marine Aquarium – the Very First Considerations

Seeing pictures of a healthy marine fish only or reef aquarium in books or on the internet, or even better, in reality at a public aquarium will cause just about anyone to appreciate the beauty and general fascination of them. Some people will wonder if they could have one, and the thought will shortly disappear. Others, however, will not forget so easily and will want to delve further into the possibility of having their own home aquarium.

If the potential aquarist knows a friend who already has a healthy marine aquarium, then there is a source of advice available already. The friend will already have been through all the research and considerations. Often, however, the potential aquarist will want to find out for him/herself. That is very good, as the aquarium system will be understood thoroughly. Then there may not be a known marine aquarist available, so what is the first move? Dashing to the local shop and buying an aquarium and a few bits of equipment that the shop says is needed is totally incorrect.

The first move is to follow a planning scaffold. This scaffold will be the foundation for all the decisions that need to be made in building the system. There are quite a few decisions along the way and things can get a little confusing, even to someone who is experienced in the freshwater aquarium field. The scaffold will help.

The scaffold has to prepare the budding marine aquarist so that indicative costing on basic equipment provision can be made. Often marine aquarists have equipment laying about. This could have been caused by upgrading because the original equipment was not adequate and needed to be replaced. Money expended that perhaps need not have been.

So, the scaffold then. The following is a list of headings and basic notes. It does not attempt and is not intended to open a comprehensive path from zero to a fantastic fish only or reef tank. What it does do is give a lead to follow on the way towards a successful aquarium. No doubt extra considerations will arise on the way, and that’s as it should be, it means the planning is working. Each stage of planning needs individual consideration, and there will often be more than one decision to make. On the way, research using books and/or the internet is useful or necessary.

Where is it practical to site the aquarium?

Try to choose a location away from direct sunlight, to assist with proper lighting control. There should not be heavy and/or noisy household traffic passing (reasonable traffic is acceptable). There needs to be a reliable power supply available, ie. power outlets. Generally easy access to the aquarium is required. If floors are suspended, consider floor strength – aquariums full of seawater are heavy!

What size aquarium?

The aquarium should not stand on ordinary furniture, but on a properly designed stand. The aquarium may need a hood. These need to be taken into account. Then the available space for the aquarium can be considered.

What type of system?

The system can be fish only or reef. This decision affects other later decisions. Most will opt for a reef.

Sump or no sump?

A sump is a small aquarium that is attached to the main one. It supplies extra water capacity to the system, and allows heaters, sand beds and protein skimmers to be kept away from the display aquarium. The sump can be beside or underneath the display aquarium. A sump on any type system is highly recommended. (If a sump is to be used, the main aquarium will need to be drilled to allow plumbing to take water from the aquarium to the sump. It is then pumped back again.) Note: if a DSB (deep sand bed) or plenum (a raised DSB) is to be employed, the sand bed area should be at least 2/3rds of the base area of the main aquarium. The sand bed should be at least 4″ deep. Consider the cost for the fine sand for the DSB. A DSB in the sump is highly recommended. Leave enough room for a partitioned area for the seawater return pump.

Lighting?

Is the system to be fish only or a reef? If fish only, then two marine fluorescents are sufficient. If reef then:

Hard corals.

Best lighting is halide, supplemented by actinic fluorescent tubes. T5 fluorescent tubes can be used (marine white and actinic equally mixed) but they do not penetrate the seawater as deeply.

Soft corals.

It is sufficient to use T5 fluorescent lighting (actinic and white mixed). Halide lighting can be used, however, and will not be detrimental (ensure corals exposed are light demanding varieties).

Net seawater capacity of aquarium and sump (if used)? This is easily calculated once the aquarium size and sump have been decided. This gallonage will be excessive as, when rocks and sand are added, it will decrease. Therefore, reduce the amount by 10%. This will still not be correct, but does give a reasonable allowance for displacement.

Seawater circulation?

The seawater in the display aquarium will need to be circulated for the health of the inhabitants whatever they are, but particularly in a reef system. It is recommended that a minimum of two powerheads are used to achieve this. The turnover of seawater in a reef needs to be around ten to twenty times the net capacity of the display aquarium (exclude the sump) per hour, depending on coral occupants.. In fish only systems, it can be less.

Protein skimmer?

A protein skimmer is essential for most systems(*), in particular where there is inexperience. The device is very useful as it helps significantly towards high water quality. The protein skimmer should be sized for around twice the net seawater capacity of the aquarium plus sump (if used). Now that the use of a sump (or not) has been decided, consider whether to use a hang-on or stand alone skimmer.

(* some mud based system designs do not require a skimmer.)

Heating?

The net gallonage of the system is known, so the heating need can be considered. (Note: it is best to purchase two heaters as this is a good safety feature for the aquarium inhabitants. Each heater should be one half of the total heating requirement.) In warm areas where temperatures are always above 80 deg F, the use of a seawater cooler (chiller) will replace heaters.

Return pump?

This only applies if using a sump. Seawater, once it has flowed to the sump, needs to be returned to the main aquarium. A pump is required for this. As a guide, the flow through the sump should be two or three times the net capacity of the system per hour. When considering the pump, remember to factor in the lift, that is the height from the pump level to the highest point that the returning seawater reaches before it enters the main aquarium.

‘Live’ rock.

This is used for filtration purposes (it is excellent for this) and for the construction of the reef. It can also be used in a fish only system. Allow 1½ lbs for each gallon that is in the entire system. There are other filtration methods, but ‘live’ rock coupled with a DSB in a sump is highly recommended.

Reverse osmosis (R/O) unit?

The R/O unit is a tap water filtration device that removes nearly all (around 95 to 98%) unwanted contaminants. Therefore the seawater mix is at its best from the start. It is highly recommended that R/O water is always used, including the first fill of the aquarium. R/O units come in different gallons per day outputs. Remember that usually the aquarium is filled completely only once. The normal routine water change amount is 10% of the net system gallonage weekly.

Dry salt mix?

There are several makes on the market. If keeping a reef system, obtain one that is ‘designed’ for reefs, as additional attention has been given to calcium content etc. Fish only systems can use ‘standard’ mixes or as described above.

Make a list.

As each item is gone through, find out and write down the likely cost. If it is electrical, also write down the wattage (W).

The evidence. When all items are priced, add them up. This represents a general guideline to the cost of setting up. If electrical, add up the wattage. Divide the total wattage by 1000, this will give kilowatts. The cost of electricity per kilowatt will be known. Multiply the number of kilowatts, including any fraction, by the cost per kilowatt, this is the approximate electrical running cost of the system per day. To get weekly, multiply by seven. Monthly, multiply by four. Etc. (Note: lights can be considered as being on 50% of the day. Heaters/coolers will not be on all the time, but it is difficult to determine a guideline percentage.)

OK. The list is there and it indicates the guideline aquarium equipment cost and electrical running cost of the system. These will not be completely accurate but near enough to either dissuade the desire to have an aquarium or to go ahead. There are other costs, of course. For example, no account has been taken of the fish and/or corals that are to inhabit the aquarium. Then additional equipment, often considered later, might be obtained, such as a calcium reactor, a de-nitrator, or a canister filter etc. Maybe coarse coral sand, ½ to 1″ deep, will be used as a decoration in the display aquarium.

Nevertheless, the scaffold will have achieved its purpose, which is to generally guide the new aquarist down a path that cuts its way through what can be a confusing beginning.

After the scaffold, there is still plenty to be done. Many answers can be found in the listed articles on this site (http://www.aquaristsonline.com).

Appropriate articles can be worked through one by one. Any remaining questions can go on the forum. The internet is an excellent resource for knowledge. Typing in a name, eg, marine aquarium lighting etc, into a search engine should produce a good response. Then, of course, there are books. Nothing like an hour of bedtime reading!

About the Author

Peter Cunningham and John Cunningham combined have been keeping salt water aquarium’s for nearly 35 years. Visit their site ‘Aquarists Online’ if you are interested in the saltwater aquarium hobby.

Making of Marine reef Aquarium 500 gallon


Filter Pads

By admin

Sep

12

Filter Pads
Whats the point of filter pads?

Wouldn’t be better to have the filter running with out any pads and change 10-20% of the water every other week? It seems like the pads are only good to hold the waste that needs to be removed from the tank
either way you should be changing the water every other week. The pads are hard to clean and cost a lot to replace.
Clean them how exactly?
The tank itself houses the bacterias as well
Ive had my tank established for over a year. I changed the pads around 8 months ago.

No, they help maintain a healthy water level by removing excess food and waste as well as removing any harmful chemicals from the water and filtering out small particles

Besides if you over-clean your tank, you can destroy your bacteria cycle you have in your tank. It’s best to clean your tank at the most every month or just when you know by the look of your water you need to do it.

Bio Filtration & Fish Tank Filter Pad Cleaning


Live Saltwater

By admin

Sep

10

Live Saltwater

How Do I Set Up A Saltwater Aquarium To Raise Coral?

Have you ever wanted to raise coral in a saltwater aquarium?  When most people go to begin a saltwater aquarium, they do so because they have a desire to create a miniature version of the ocean in their living room.  Besides the brightly color fish and flowing plants, they’ve been intrigued by growing  a coral reef in their saltwater aquarium, the ultimate goal of many a saltwater aquarium enthusiast.

If you’re a beginner, it’s not advised that your first attempt with a saltwater aquarium is to try and raise coral.  Start with a mini-pod or small saltwater aquarium and become familiar with all the ins and outs of saltwater aquariums first.  Once you have mastered the creating and maintaining of a saltwater aquarium, you will be ready to add one of the hardier breeds of saltwater coral to your tank.

Before your purchase your coral reef, keep in mind that you are not just adding an elaborate rock to your tank.  Coral are called “Polyps” which are tiny invertebrate.  These polyps work together to form the limestone structures commonly known as coral reefs.  Polyps require special care and food, proper lighting, and water.  Just “dropping” them into your saltwater tank and forgetting about them will likely kill them.

Critical to coral surviving (and to any saltwater life form) is having good water.  An abrupt change in your water can cause any of your fish or your polyps to go into a state of shock.  It this happens you’ll know because your coral reef will change color.  Be sure your saltwater aquarium is filled with clear water, which will allow the coral reef to get the full benefit of your lighting.

Polyps also require a strong water current, so you will need to outfit your tank with a filter that circulates the water throughout your entire tank or get one of those power jets.  Be sure your current creates a swirl of water, rather than a linear current.

Be sure to research the coral you are considering purchasing as each different breed of coral may require specialty lighting.

Coral, like all living creatures, requires the correct type of food.  Most coral need to be fed every two to three days.  It was believed that coral reefs only needed minimal food supplies, because corals were nutrient poor.  And then other folks assumed that coral reefs used photosynthesis for feeding.  Both of these assumptions have been proven wrong.  Coral require food that has to be frozen or refrigerated – in other words food that is fairly fresh.  Once coral food becomes stale, it is no longer good for the coral.

Coral size is a determinant in figuring out how much food you can provide your coral reef.  If your coral has large fleshy looking polyps you will be able to feed them large pieces of food, minced meat and large zooplankton.

Smaller polyps require smaller pieces of food, as your coral needs to be able to digest the food.  So keep in mind the size of your polyps when feeding your coral.

It would be a terrible experience to have your coral die because it has starved to death because it cannot digest the food you have provided.

About the Author

To read more about saltwater aquariums, visit: http://www.Squidoo.com/how-to-set-up-a-saltwater-aquarium.

To get your utlimate guide to setting up your saltwater aquarium visit this link: Utlimate Guide to Saltwater Aquariums

Owl City – “The Saltwater Room” (New Version!) Live! HD


Titanium Aquarium

By admin

Sep

5

Titanium Aquarium

What on Earth is Diatomaceous Earth?

Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth is Mother Earth’s own creation.  It is a safe, organic, natural substance that has many nutritional and health benefits to animals, livestock, humans, the Earth but deadly to bed bugs, fleas, lice, ticks, roaches, ants, spiders, termites, silver fish, slugs, snails, etc..

Diatomaceous Earth is a white chalky rock sediment built up over eons and eons by fossilized skeletal remains of diatoms. These fossilized rock formation are called diatomite. Diatoms are one of the most common types of phytoplankton, a singled celled algae.  The diatoms’ cells are encased within a unique cell wall made of silica, in the form of silicon dioxide. These rock sediments are crushed and milled into a flour like consistency and hence it is also called Fossil Shell Flour.

Silica is a major mineral vital to all life forms – animals, plants and humans.  Dr. Adolf Butenandt, 1939 Nobel Price winner, proved that “life cannot exist without silica”. Dr. Barbara Hendel states that “Silica is the most important trace element in human health”. Perma-Guard’s Fresh Water Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth contains 89 – 95% amorphous silica and 14+ essential trace minerals.

It is important to know that amorphous silica is different from crystalline silica. Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth amorphous silica is silicon dioxide in it’s natural occurring state.  A major mineral that co-exists with essential trace minerals such as: calcium, copper, iron, potassium, sodium, titanium, boron, manganese, copper and zirconium.  These are minerals every mammals on the planet needs to live. It becomes crystalline when it is exposed to extreme heat through volcanic activity or commercial manufacturing means. Crystalline silica is used in filtration systems such as those of swimming pools, aquariums, etc… This form is extremely dangerous when inhaled or ingested and not biodegradable.  

Food Grade DE is used as: Animal Feed Additive, Anti-Caking Agent, Inert Carrier, Grain Storage Protectant, Trace Mineral Supplements for both animals and humans and food grade insecticide. Churned into soil, it provides the earth with much needed minerals and porosity improving fertility and soil tilth.

In her book, “Going Green Using Diatomaceous Earth How-to Tips”, Tui Rose, a concerned mother and registered nurse, does an excellent job in providing fact based data and resources for DE. It is an easy guide book for using a safer alternative, natural mineral, food grade insecticide with over 101 uses.

About the Author

Jane Heinrichs became interested in natural alternative medicine due to her experiences with the side effects of long term medication for asthma and other health issues.   She has spent 20+ years researching and using natural alternative cures to overcome her own long term health issues including adrenal failure, fibromyalgia, Thyroid dysfunction and asthma.  Diatomaceous earth is her latest discovery.

Learn how you can be a part of the going green evolution a book by Tui Rose, Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth and related products are available for purchased at <a href=”http://www.alivingearth.com”>ALivingEarth</a>

aquarium heater


Diy Reef

By admin

Sep

3

Diy Reef

DIY Aquarium Backgrounds

One of the questions which I am asked quite a lot is how do I hide all the plumbing and/or wires around the back of the tank so that they are not visible from the front.

And I agree it does not look natural. You set your aquarium up and all the rock is aquascaped perfectly yet all you can see through the back of the tank is the wall, wires, pipework etc.

Of course there are areas where you don’t want to apply a background to an aquarium. A good example of this is when an aquarium is installed into a wall where the aquarium can be seen from both sides.

When you start out in this hobby thinking about a background is probably the last thing on your mind. You are learning that much about this hobby that a background is well down the list. Actually the background should be thought about as part of the planning stage.

You may even end up purchasing a salt water aquarium package where a background is not included.

The planning stage is an exceptionally important part when it comes to setting up a salt water aquarium, however it is also unfortunately one of the things which is not performed.

When you consider starting your aquarium you need to research as much as you can (when you finish researching then research a little bit more!) and then you can start planning. When you start planning you do this based upon the animal you wish to keep and not the equipment you need. You purchase the equipment which is necessary for the animals which you hope to keep not just know but also in the future.

The reason I have talked about planning is that the background is part of this. For example you may want to incorporate overflows into the rear of the tank. Your chosen background needs to accommodate this.

It is also easier to apply a background before the aquarium is installed and full of water.

There are various DIY aquarium backgrounds that you can use which are listed below:

* Incorporate a painted wooden background onto the rear of the stand.

* Paint the rear glass of the aquarium.

* Paint a thin wooden background and attach it to the rear of the aquarium using silicone.

* Attach a curtain or some other type of fabric across the rear of the aquarium.

* Purchase reef rock, cut them in half and stick to the inside rear of the aquarium.

* Make a cave/reef structure out of salt water rated concrete/resin or foam.

The most utilised option out of the above DIY aquarium backgrounds is where the rear glass of the aquarium is painted.

The next thing to think about is what colour do you use?

This is up to you really. It is personal preference, however the most common used colours and blue and black. The trick is to attempt to make it so that the background is not obvious and seamlessly integrates into the aquarium. The rear of the aquarium will probably get covered in corraline etc within time.

If you choose to paint the glass then ensure that you clean the glass first with some glass cleaner and ensure that all fingerprints and oil based marks are removed. If you not 100% sure that it is clean do it again to make sure. You can now either spray or hand paint the glass. Do so in several thin coats ensuring that the previous coat is dry before applying the next.

When all the coats are applied wait until it is completely dry before touching it or moving the tank. The paint does not attach that well to glass and can easily peel.

Whichever of the DIY aquarium backgrounds you choose to use attempt to plan for it prior to starting your aquarium. It is much easier to paint the aquarium when it is empty and not in it’s final position.

About the Author

Peter Cunningham and John Cunningham combined have been keeping salt water aquarium’s for nearly 35 years. Their website Salt Water Aquarium provides a wealth of resources for learning how to start and maintain salt water aquariums.

Rickets Reef: DIY HowTo Make A Glass Aquarium in 3 Steps…


Gallon Aquarium

By admin

Aug

31

Gallon Aquarium
How do you make a 29 gallon aquarium stand?

I’m thinking about buying a 29 gallon planted aquarium, so I need a stand, but the store ones are sooooooooooo expensive………….I want to build one………

http://www.aquariumlife.net/projects/diy-aquarium-stand/56.asp
http://fishlesscycling.com/forum/index.php?topic=696.0 (Not for a 29 gallon tank, but you can figure out the new proportions).

E-mail me for any questions!

ZTM

1 Gallon Saltwater Aquarium and Globe Ecosystem


Aquarium Decoration

By admin

Aug

30

Aquarium Decoration

Aquarium Decoration Techniques

Aquarium decorations include natural things found outdoors or some flashy plastic stuff which will bring smile to your face or will irritate you.

In this article first of all I will try to give you an overview about the various aquarium decorations the types that you can choose from. After that I will venture on to discuss about the advantages and disadvantages of having manufactured decorations or is it better to choose organic decorations. After that I will conclude with some tips on aquarium decorations and also will offer you a list of online sources.

Aquarium Decorations: What are they?

Simply speaking aquarium decoration includes both natural organic things found in the outdoors and also manufactured things. Decorations can be used in both freshwater tanks as well as in saltwater tank. But if you are thinking that you are not bothered about fish tank decorations at all and will not go for those, you may consider the following points before taking the final decision:

* A lot of fish treat the so called decorations as their shelters from other aggressive fish.
* Live rock, although part of decorative items is essential for their service of natural bioorganic filtration.

Decorations for Freshwater Aquarium

If you have a   fresh water aquarium you can go with both organic decorations as well as manufactured ones. The following is a list for you to consider:

* Manufactured decorations items:

Fake plants which can be either plastic or silk
Fake rocks which can be either plastic or ceramic
Fake wood

Advantage and disadvantage of manufactured decorations

* Manufactured decorations are long lasting.
* It is easier to clean manufactured decorations compared to living ones.    
* When you have manufactured or fake decorations then you do not need to take extra care for those. So you can concentrate on caring for your fish alone.
* In fake decorations you are given a wide variety to choose from.
* Fake decorations look beautiful and can increase the show of a fish tank.

Disadvantages:

* Fake decorations may look cheap.
* In some instances fake decorations can be more expensive then the living ones.

Organic (dead) Decorations:

Driftwood
Real rocks
Substrates including gravel, beach sand coral sand

Advantages and disadvantages of Organic decorations

Advantages:
* Organic (dead) decorations look more realistic and classy.

Disadvantages:
* Organic decorations have the potential to affect your aquarium in some minor ways. For example in some cases driftwood can lead to acidity in water.  Although it is not a problem in the strictest terms but it should be monitored. Moreover, never ever put driftwood in saltwater tank.

* Before putting living rocks you must ensure first that they are ok for your tank. Some rocks are harmful for freshwater tanks and some are unsuitable for saltwater. Like limestone can increase the pH level of the tank.
* Carefully see and ensure that there are no sharp edges in your decorations which can be harmful for your fish.

* Organic (living) Decorations: Live plants

Advantages and disadvantages of Organic Decorations (Living)

Advantages:

* Living organic decorations have a very realistic look and they can enhance the beauty of any tank.

Disadvantages:

* Having living organic decorations may prove to be an expensive affair. They also require much care and attention.

* Aquarium fish may eat them!

* You may not find a   great variety to choose from in regards to color and shape which is not the case with manufactured decorations.

About the Author

Chintamani Abhyankar is a goldfish enthusiast and has been raising and breeding goldfish for many years.  He is an expert on their care and an advocate for raising healthy goldfish the natural way.  His famous digital book <a target=”_new” href=”http://www.goldfishcaretips.com”>Secrets on Keeping Beautiful Goldfish</a>, offers simple, easy to follow instruction for raising healthy, long-living goldfish. Visit his website http://www.goldfishcaretips.com to learn more about expertly raising your goldfish and to receive your FREE copy of his special report, <a target=”_new” href=”http://www.goldfishcaretips.com”>Fish-Keeping Hobby Secrets Revealed</a>

Fish Tank Decoration Volcano


Aquarium Snails

By admin

Aug

28

Aquarium Snails
What do I feed my aquarium snails?

Okay I don’t have any algae wafers or brine shrimp or any fish food at all. I’ve been given 2 aquarium snails that are very hungry. They are alone in a 5 gallon tank with no other plants or fish. So they have nothing to feed on, no algae as the tank is newly set up and clean. What can I feed them? Any food commonly found in the kitchen? (Lettuce, etc.) Please help, they are hungry :(

The diet of the aquarium snail depends on its species; some eat plants while others prefer fish food and decaying debris that has sunk to the bottom. Many also prefer a diet of algae, which is why certain snails can be beneficial to aquariums as they help maintain water quality.
Please mark as best answer if it helps!

Freshwater Aquarium Snails Time-lapse 30 x


Live Coral

By admin

Aug

28

Live Coral

Coral Calcium And The Effects On The Environment Of Its

There are two sources of Okinawa coral calcium. Above sea coral calcium, which is mined above sea level and below sea coral calcium, which is also called “marine grade” coral calcium. Below sea coral calcium is vacuumed from the ocean bottom near the Coral reefs. Which is best, Above-Sea Coral Calcium or Below-Sea Coral Calcium?The fossilized coral suppliers claim that theirs is in aragonite form which is more soluble than the marine variety which is heat treated and becomes a calcite form of crystal. This has been verified in a Japanese laboratory.The discoverer of Coral Calcium was Dr. Robert barefoot. His belief was that the reason why the Okinawans from Japan lived longer was that their drinking water was rich in coral reef substances surrounding their area. He further said that it would neutralize the toxic acidity of the body as coral calcium is alkaline based.

A little foray to Okinawa last summer unearthed another matter of concern regarding “marine” coral calcium – that is the purity of a product that involves vacuuming the ocean floor. We obtained raw marine coral product samples which have a high sand content. This is not all bad as sand is not toxic or harmful. It is just not a pure coral product. These impurities are likely the reason marine coral calcium has lower calcium content than fossilized coral. Some people also favor the fossilized form on ethical grounds – because the marine vacuuming process can be damaging to the coral environment. Although we would take “marine” coral if it were the only type available, we favor fossilized coral for reasons noted above. Both forms of Okinawa coral are long dead so much of their mineral content is depleted relative to live coral which has recently been introduced.Coral Calcium and the Effects on the Environment For years, coral calcium web sites have been claiming that they do not harm the environment when harvesting their coral. Taking a closer look at the harvesting processes that are used tell a different story about the effects of coral calcium on the environment. Now more than ever, the coral reefs of Okinawa Japan are endangered and need all the help we can provide.

Marine Coral Calcium Many companies sell marine coral calcium that they say is “only the dead coral debris vacuumed up from around the reefs.” Unfortunately for the environment this dredging process includes a 250 foot industrial dredging ship lowering a large pipe to the bottom of the ocean and vacuuming. This method not only takes the dead coral debris but destroys the reef eco system by generating a thick layer of silt which smothers the reef killing the coral larvae that grow future reefs in the surrounding areas.

About the Author

Visit for more useful information on bodybuilding supplements and coral calcium also ginkgo biloba benefits .

The Coral – Dreaming Of You (Live at Glastonbury 2007)


Phosphate Filter

By admin

Aug

28

Phosphate Filter

Discover the Benefits of Using Whole House Water Filter

Where the tap water we use does come from for our household needs?

Mostly from two natural resources: surface water, such as ponds, lakes, rivers, creeks and streams, and ground water that is extracted by means of a well. But regardless of the original source tap water unfortunately is not at all safe to drink.

It contains numerous impurities that can be harmful to your health.

Heavy metals, such as cooper, iron, lead, fluoride, radon can occur naturally. Some substances can contaminate ground water leaching through the soil or from the plumbing pipes. Among those very dangerous contaminants are fertilizers, asbestos, cyanides, pesticides and numerous industrial chemicals. To kill bacteria and to adjust PH some substances, such as chlorine, carbon, lime, soda ash, phosphates and aluminum sulfate are added intentionally.

But even with these actions taken the water still could be contaminated with viruses, bacteria and parasites.

One of the America’s leading authorities on water contamination, Dr. David Ozonoff of the Boston University School of Public Health states, “The risk of disease associated with public drinking water has passed from the theoretical to real”.

There is only one possible way of removing all undesirable substances right at the “point of entry”. It is to use one of the best filters offered on the market – the whole house water filter.

Only whole house water filter can remove contaminants that potentially hazardous to your health along with hundreds chemicals that can cause “rotten-egg” smell of the water.

Whole house water filter can remove bad smell and taste of the water that comes from a lake or reservoir and is polluted by algae.

The biggest problem of the tap water we use in our household is huge amount of chlorine that is intentionally added in public water supplies to kill bacteria, adjust PH and eliminate cloudiness.

Chlorine is incredibly harmful for your skin and hair, because it kills cells and attacks the oil that retains moisture.

Washing clothes in chlorinated water fades color and is damaging to fabric.

But most hazardous is chlorinated gas that evaporates from hot water when you take a shower. This gas is one of the most common sources of indoor air pollution in many households.

Studies show that most American homes have higher level of chloroform gas caused by chlorine evaporation from treated water. Chlorine gas is released into the air every time you shower, bathe, flush the toilet or wash your clothes with chlorinated water.

This is very dangerous for kids, asthma suffers and people with weak immune system.

Only whole house water filter can give you chlorine free water in tap, bath and shower. Chlorine free showers will leave your skin softer, and more hydrated thus younger-looking and suppler. Your hair will be silky smooth and hair color will last longer.

Fresh and clean laundry free of chlorine will not ruin your clothes.

You will have better tasting water at every tap in your house. Using whole house water filter will guarantees that the air in your home will be much cleaner and healthier.

Using whole house water filter will prevent your major appliances from rust, caused by iron present in the unfiltered water. Iron can also stain fixtures, such as sinks, showers, toilets etc. In the iron rich water certain bacteria that thrive in hot water heaters produces hydrogen sulfide the source of “rotten-egg” smell.

So, it is imperative to clean and purify water, used in your household by the means of whole house water filter.

About the Author

Lev Gutmakher is an active supporter of healthy living and a researcher of water purification systems. To learn about the water filtration systems that Lev recommends, visit now: http://www.safewaterpurifier.com/watersystem.htm

phosphate bath auto pressure filter youtube video.wmv


Automatic Aquarium

By admin

Aug

27

Automatic Aquarium
I have 2 pet finches and will be on vacation for 30 days; is there an automatic feeder for caged birds?

I don’t know if there is such a thing as an automatic feeder for caged birds, but since I have one for my aquarium, I thought someone might be able to help. I would much appreciate it.

You could try your local pet store. Most of the ones I go to will bird sit for a fee. Maybe a friend who isn’t afraid of birds, wouldn’t mind bird sitting. My mom and best friend, are both wonderful when I plan a vacation, one or the other will offer to take them. Good luck!

Automatic aquarium led light dusk down simulation


Plant Tank

By admin

Aug

27

Plant Tank

Fish tank

Fish tank is also known as aquarium fish tank for keeping ornamental fishes. Fish tanks were once all made of glass but now Acrylic tanks are also becoming more commonplace. Fish tanks are the glass or strong Plexiglas boxes or rectangles that you use to create your aquarium habitat for fish. Fish tanks are loved by all, and the thought of growing and maintaining a system of living, breathing beings is more than a hobby, it is a life. Many people say that Fish tanks are expressions of their owner’s personal style or of the style of the room or home in which they reside.  Fish tanks are a wonderful place to observe a habitat on a smaller scale. Maintaining a is not a difficult task, but it requires time and consistency. Fish tank setup is well known as an interesting hobby if you know how to care for the aquarium.

Saltwater aquarium known as well as marine aquarium, this type of tank is more expensive and more demanding then a freshwater aquarium but with a little help and with the right guide you can setup your own saltwater tank, I believe that if you have the suitable equipment it will help you to avoid future problems. 

A reef aquarium or reef tank is an aquarium containing live corals and other animals associated with coral reefs. Unlike the marine aquarium, the main purpose of which is to house various types of fish, the true stars of the reef tank are the coral and other invertebrates. Reef tanks are usually kept at a temperature between 25 and 27 °C (75-80 ºF). Reef tanks can be beautiful and exotic and for soma a piece of nature. The primary filtration for reef aquariums usually comes from the use of large amounts of live rocks which come from various rubble zones around existing reefs. Researchers are finding that saltwater fish aquariums have therapeutic health benefits. The tanks are usually constructed from either glass or acrylic. With advances in modern aquariums it’s recently became possible to have a piece of coral reef at home and enjoy it in the privacy of your living room.

Freshwater fish tank or tropical Fish tank is an aquarium containing fish, plants, deco, rocks, and woods depending on what you want to keep in your tank. The most common freshwater fish tanks are plant tanks, cichlid tanks and community tanks. The tanks are usually constructed from either glass or acrylic. In order to keep a healthy tank it should be maintain on a weekly basis.

For more free information visit us at:

Aquariumpassion

 

About the Author

Rotem Gavish is a fish expert. Dedicating his life to this beautiful hobby, his expertise is in all related to aquarium world such as fish, plants and invertebrates. Rotem established his site http://www.aquariumpassion.com/ with the vision of sharing tips and free information. For further information he would like to invite you to his forum http://www.aquariumpassion.com/forum/.

my goldfish planted tank


Tank Aquarium

By admin

Aug

27

Tank Aquarium
can I use a reptile tank as an aquarium for my fish?

i have a 55 gl tank for reptiles but i want to use it as an aquarium for my fish, would that be okay? is the glass strong enough to hold all the water?
is it all the same thing, a tank is a tank?

They are absolutely not always the same thing. Depends where you got it. If you got it from a good reputable dealer yes it will be the same as a fish tank. The most important thing to check is thickness of the glass, and the quality/thickness of the sealant used. Compare it to a “real” aquarium, and if it’s looks about the same it will suffice.
BIG TIP, put a few inches of water in it and leave it for a while to see if it has any leaks before using it as an aquarium, especially if it’s already been used as a reptile tank.

Kuroshio Sea – 2nd largest aquarium tank in the world – (song is Please don’t go by Barcelona)


Coral Zoanthid

By admin

Aug

27

Coral Zoanthid
What lighting should I use for my zoas & mushrooms?

I’m looking for some good lighting for a 10g tank (20″ long) that will support mushroom and zoanthid corals. I have a budget of $100 total. I’ve tried my hand at finding something, but I’m inexperienced and don’t know much about what I need. Could someone please either post a link to a product that you think would fill my requirements? Or tell me what specifications I need? Or where I could look? Thanks!

you aren’t going to find any real descent lighting for that price range, unless you go used, or find some amazing sale.
for that tank, T5′s should work(10,000K and Actinic).most major petstores will carry these, and certainly any salt water speciality store.

do you already have these inverts?? if you do, i would see if your LFS can house thme for you under correct lighting, until you get your lights set up and running, even a couple of days with no lighting, or incorrect lighting can do some serious damage to them.

38 gallon mixed reef : hammer coral / zoanthids


Aquarium Submersible

By admin

Aug

26

Aquarium Submersible

What You Need To Know About Aquarium Heaters

As you many have already figured out there are many things that you need to do when you set up your aquarium. Depending on which type of fish that you have in your aquarium will depend on the temperature of the water. One of the things that you will require for your aquariums is an aquarium heater. An aquarium heater is a small device that is placed on the inside of the aquarium that controls the temperature of the water. It is important that the temperature is set correctly so that your fish are kept comfortable.

Are Aquarium Heaters Important?

Did you know that most tropical fish are cold blooded animals? Being cold-blooded means that they cannot control their own body temperature so they cannot keep themselves warm. Different types of fish also have different body temperatures so when buying your fish select ones that have the same type of temperature requirements otherwise you will find that some will die.

How Do I Know What Type Of Heater To Buy?

It all depends on the size and type of your aquarium and the type of fish you plan on purchasing. There are three basic types of heaters available. There is the aquarium heater that simply hangs on the side of the tank. The hanging types of heaters are the most basic heating unit and are okay for use in smaller aquariums.

There is also a submersible type of aquarium heater. This is the type of aquarium heater that is dropped into the water completely to heat and warm the aquarium. These are more convenient and more reliable that a heater that hangs on the side of the tank because it provides more consistent heat for the fish.

The heating cable system is also used and is commonly used in aquariums with live plants. This is the best aquarium heater because it provides continuous, even heat throughout the aquarium. It cost more money, but is a better heater than the other two types of aquarium heaters.

Since most fish are cold blooded and will need heating to ensure that they stay alive and live comfortably, an aquarium heater then becomes an essential item in most home aquariums. If your unsure of the type of heater is required for your aquarium then your local pet shop or aquarium shop is the best place to ask. 84 degrees is the minimum requirement for most tropical fish so the type of fish, aquarium size and plants will determine the type of heater you will need.

About the Author

Need more information on aquarium heating or articles on home aquariums please visit: http://www.enchantedaquariums.com

Submersible underwater colour changing waterproof LED Aquarium/Fish Tank Lighting/Lights/Lamp


African Cichlid

By admin

Aug

24

African Cichlid

Cichlid care – how to do it?

The African cichlids are tropical fishes.Generally tropical fish need more attention than other fish species.+ There are different kinds of cichlid species available like flower horn, electric blue, green terror, electric yellow, convict, dwarf and lots more.

Cichlids like aquatic plants and rock caves in the freshwater aquarium to escape and breed. You should not keep a single cichlid as they are feel lonely and will not live in an aquarium and probably will die within days. It’s the affection between you and your lovely cichlid which matters most.The cichlids are highly territorial creature and do not want to live with other small fishes and will probably make them meal if they get a chance. The cichlid aquarium should be clean regularly and maintain properly by a cichlid expert. The more cleanly your tank the more benefit you will get.it is best not to put aquarium plants in their home because they tend to dig up underground substance. If you have a large species of cichlid like African zebra cichlid,Do not keep any large cichlid with a small tropical fish, cichlid will probably kill them.

Cichlids are very fiercely territorial which makes them more active. If you keep cichlids in a tank together just make sure there is enough room for them to claim their own space. They like to be in water temperatures of 70 degree Celsius. The protein of your fish diet should be flake food. It is fine to have mix diet sometimes even with earthworms. If you have a pair of opposite sex, the male will usually drove away the female after intercourse.
If you decide to be a cichlid breeder you need to know that there are two different types of breeders. Substrate brooder lay eggs out in the open on a surface or hidden in a hole. They will used to fan the eggs to increase oxygen supply and after they hatched, the fish will look after the young until they can eat their food. The parent fishes will still protect the young against enemies. The parents will be extremely active during this time. Another type of breeder is called a mouth brooder like dwarf cichlids who put their eggs in their mouths. Most aquarium cichlids are mouth brooder who stops looking after the young once they can swim on their own but other continue to care for them by allowing them go back into their mouths when they are afraid.Fish tank should be provided with enough room for cichlids to escape and hide.
There are many cichlid care manuals available in the market. There are a lot of cichlid info in the cichlid forum but you need to find out which one is better among these. Finally cichlids are very sensitive to their owners and their family members.

About the Author

For more info you can visit to

cichlidcare.org

African Cichlids


Aquarium Decor

By admin

Aug

23

Aquarium Decor

Fish Tank Themes, Ideas for Aquarium Decor

When it comes to fish tanks, they really give your home that extra bang. Not only do they house, beautifully tropical fish, but they serve as a decoration all on their own. However, you can use the inside of your tank to express your personal style and design as well. No matter what size fish tank you have, the possibilities are endless. Here are some ideas for themes and visually pleasing aquarium décor.

Natural Themes

Fish tanks look awesome when they are filled with natural stones, rocks, and a floor full of seaweed. Salt water fish tanks usually have live corals and living plants sustained within the environment. However, fresh water tanks could suffer from parasites and germ contaminations if they house real wood or rock formations. Instead, you can get word or gravel replicas for a more natural look. Strategically place your reefs and rocks giving your fish room to hide, to actively swim, and giving your aquarium an overall natural look.

Pirate Decor

You may think of setting some pirate chests and ships in your tank for a more lively scene. Deeper blues and purples are great for the bottom gravel in a classic pirate themed tank. Add some mall plants around a wrecked ship  and get some skull ornaments or perhaps some buried treasure to add a little zest to your fish tank.

Architectural Theme

This may be for a little bit of a more expensive setting, say an upper class living room or working den. You can create a famous architectural setting with props such as the Great Wall of China, Egyptian Ruins, Stonehenge pieces, or Asian or Indian inspired structions. These types of architectural pieces add more depth and interest to your tank. Keep the theme consistent throughout the entire tank and add a backdrop as well as a forground.

Cartoon Décor

When decorating your fish tank you may also think of cartoon characters that would suit your aquarium well. Themes like Sponge Bob Square pants and The Little Mermaid are increasingly popular choices. Try to match everything accordingly. For example if you go with a Sponge Bob theme you might want to add some bright yellow coral and other characters from the show. This is a great idea for children’s rooms.

Whatever you decide, make sure your aquarium is interesting, fun to look at, and has an underwater theme that is out of this world! Click here for cheap cheap fish tanks at one of the most trusted online sources on the web, decorate accordingly.

About the Author

How to Set Up Aquariums : Freshwater Aquarium Decorating Ideas


Part Calcium

By admin

Aug

23

Part Calcium

WHAT ARE THE REAL CORAL CALCIUM BENEFITS

Coral calcium is derived from the living coral reefs that are present at several places. The calcium has been eroded away by some agent off the reefs or they have simply fallen off. This coral calcium is a boon to human health. They keep humans off several diseases and protect the body marvelously.

Coral calcium has tremendous benefits on our health. Amongst the several diseases that they can cure, cardiac ailments, diabetes, and cancer are the most distinguished ones.

Coral calcium is an excellent source of calcium. Coral calcium is readily absorbed by the human body. Our body absorbs coral calcium much better than it absorbs any other calcium supplements. Coral calcium is better than any other calcium supplement for several reasons. It includes traces of many minerals in its composition. These minerals provide extra food for the body. It contains a very high amount of calcium as compared to the other supplements. The calcium content is in between 24% to 38%. The compound that makes up coral calcium is calcium carbonate.

CORAL CALCIUM BENEFITS FOR OLD PEOPLE:

As we grow old, our bodies require calcium more and more. 90% of the people who are in their 60s suffer from calcium deficiency. The bones are the seat of the body’s calcium content. The body extracts calcium from the bones whenever necessary. People who are in their 60s or above really need calcium to remain healthy and coral calcium is the best form of calcium for them. It is the safest means to derive calcium.

Coral calcium has some unique properties which benefit the human body. The cells that make up the heart, the nerves and the muscles depend on coral calcium to function. Cancer can form if there is a lack of calcium in the body.

There are lots of coral calcium benefits. The bones become really fragile when there is a dearth of calcium content. We need a lot of calcium to function properly. We need double the amount of calcium than any other mineral in our bodies. Those who are unhealthy, they have a very acidic system.

MARINE GRADE CORAL CALCIUM FOUND IN OKINAWA:

This is a place in Japan, providing high quality coral calcium. They are imported by several countries throughout the world. Many people have been greatly benefitted by this product. People take it as a medicine throughout the world.

SOME DISEASES THAT THIS PRODUCT CAN CURE:

Marine grade coral calcium in Japan can heal the following diseases:

• Many types of cancer
• Cardiac ailments
• Hypertension
• Other health troubles

Many people believe that this product can bring miraculous results. It strengthens the immune system, forms a protective cover for the entire body shielding it from many diseases. There are several medicine brands which manufacture coral calcium. But, reviews say that Bob Barefoot coral calcium is the best amongst them all.

The benefits of coral calcium are plenty. Some of the other diseases cured by this product include Multiple sclerosis, high BP and lupus.

About the Author

CoralSupreme.com has been providing Authentic Bob Barefoot Coral Calcium for over ten years!  We are your trusted source for complete nutrition.  For more information on coral calcium benefits, visit http://www.coralsupreme.com today!

Look Around You – Calcium (pilot episode) Part 1

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